During coffee break at work our co-workers exclaimed “Greenwood! You drove to Greenwood for the day. What did you do there?”
Road Trip to Greenwood, BC
About noon on a Thursday, Loretta and I escaped Kelowna, BC and drove east along scenic Highway 3. We gradually climbed to the summit of Big White and after a long and easy descent we followed alongside the pretty and shallow Kettle River. Both of us have motorcycle riding as a favorite pastime and know this road to be a feast for the eyes and a joy to drive.
Just over two hours later we were in the shadows of the impressive sentinels of Greenwood’s copper ore mining history. The huge slag pile and the 36-metre smokestack are remnants of the BC Copper Company smelter that was built in 1898.
Greenwood Yesterday
Greenwood has held the title of the “Smallest City in Canada” since its inception on July 12th, 1897. A peak population of 3000 benefited from the smelter that, during the first year of operation, ran 24 hours a day, employed 47 men and smelted 106,000 tonnes of ore.
A major part of Boundary Country beginnings, the mining eventually ran its course and the smelter closed for good in 1918. Greenwood's economy fell back onto the logging that was used to build the town, the railway and rail trestles, and fed the needs of the people scattered throughout the Boundary area.
Greenwood was a whisper of the city it used to be when World War II broke out in 1939. The population expanded by more than 1200 people with the internment of Japanese Canadians. Boarded-up buildings were refurbished, the fire hall became a kindergarten, new stores opened and many voices again filled the air. But it was a difficult time of suspicion, fear, and suffering. The 1998 movie Snow Falling on Cedars, filmed in Greenwood and starring Ethan Hawke, brings to life the poignant memories of that unsettled time in Canadian history.
Greenwood Today
A walk down Greenwood’s main street, Copper Street, is taking a trip back in time. Historical beauty comes alive in the beautifully restored architecture of the late 1800s. There is an active city council for 800 proud residents who are working hard at making this sweet place grow.
Loretta and I dropped into the eclectic Tomorrow’s Treasures Gift and Quilt Shoppe and found ourselves chatting with the store’s owner Jocelyn, like we were old friends. Across the street, we visited with proprietors Ric and Jim, who were busy putting in new refrigeration in the beautiful and elegant Pacific Grill. They graciously showed us inside the breathtakingly preserved dining room. Looking at the many photos of Greenwood’s history hung on the wooden walls, and lit by replicas of turn of the century lamps, Loretta and I felt we should have been wearing gowns of an era gone by.
Cara, owner of Then & Now Furniture Emporium, walked us around her elegant store, patiently showing us everything we wanted to look at, even if it meant removing items from a display to reach the ones we wanted to touch. As an active member of the Greenwood Heritage Society she is a treasure trove of information about the area.
There were choices about where to have lunch, each unique with menus and décor. We had a delectable sandwich made with fresh baked bread at the Copper Eagle Cappuccino and Bakery, and ate outside on their relaxing and private patio behind the building.
Pride in Community and Unified Vision
Residents and business owners were passionate when telling us the Founder’s Day Parade in July was the biggest one the city ever had. We were encouraged to visit the Museum and view a new display that had taken all winter to complete. And we were told the outdoor swimming pool was refurbished and ready to go for the summer. Pride in this city was evident everywhere we went.
Greenwood is perfect for a day’s outing, or for taking a few days to stay in comfortable accommodations and explore this diversified, interesting and vibrant part of Canada’s heritage.
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